Models

2011_12_Vogue-Italia-Karlie-Kloss

Karlie Kloss and the Body

I love Karlie Kloss. I live in her home town and she’s an icon around here. I saw her controversial Italian vogue spread a few weeks ago, and I also thought “wow, she looks thin.” But I also know her managers, and they are such loving, hands-on people, and I highly doubt they would let anorexia slip through the cracks. This image was the most shocking to me, and here are some words from the editor of vogue in response to the backlash:

A few thoughts from Franca Sozzani at Vogue.It

I think that letting people talk about things they don’t know, or about what they assume to be the truth, is rather interesting as it entails various conclusions.

First: who said these pictures have been heavily Photoshopped is wrong.

Second: very few understand photography and don’t know about the viewpoint a body can be shot from. If the bust is imbalanced with respect to the pelvis and the picture is not frontal, the hips will look wider and the waist thinner.

Third: not only Karlie is not anorexic but has a muscular body with a rounded contour due to the muscles’ tension, as you can see on the cover picture, where the “buttocks” are muscular and rounded, just like the thighs and the biceps, and to hush everyone up on this matter it will be enough to know that she was picked by Victoria’s Secret, the underwear line that loves real women par excellence and for which all models have posed: Adriana Lima, Naomi Campbell, Tyra Banks, Eva Herzigova, Laetitia Casta, Bar Rafaeli, Gisele Bundchen or Miranda Kerr. Victoria’s Secret would never use an anorexic model as this would clash with their philosophy that enhances a woman who is provocative and sexy, especially when wearing a bra and knickers or a micro-petticoat.

Fourth: I did not remove the first picture from the site because I thought it set a bad example due to its thinness, but because I am aware of the fact that people can easily attach labels without thinking, so I believed I could avoid a pointless debate. I made a mistake. I had to do what I thought was right, that is leave the picture and let everybody express their opinion freely. The picture is beautiful and that’s all.

A few years ago I had to argue with the readers when they accused Karen Elson, who is beautiful and has a very feminine figure, of being anorexic. Those pictures had been realized using a technique conceived by Man Ray called “distortion”. Images shot with an elongated “distorted” effect, a bit like when we look in a convex mirror, obtained using zoom lenses and in particular wide-range zoom lenses, but also with normal lenses and in this case the effect depends on how close the shot is made. The limbs look elongated and obviously thinner. It’s a photographic technique.

Fifth: I started my battle against pro-anorexia websites speaking as a layman and I would never want to set a bad example. But if in order to avoid doing “visible mistakes” I must give up on special and experimental pictures, I’d rather start photography courses to educate many people who work in this  field who don’t know anything about the history of photography.

Just to enlighten yourselves, have a look at the pictures shot by Penn or Avedon in the 50s and 60s as, although the models are clothed, you will understand that movement was key in their photography and the models’ moves where expressly over-enhanced to add depth to an image.

Sixth: before talking, why not just ask? I would have answered your doubts before, without causing so many pointless remarks.

And, by the way, don’t forget Karlie is first of all a classical ballet dancer and her body and mucles reflects this. Her body resembles that of Margot Fonteyn, one of the greatest classical ballet dancer of all times.

Read more

cover

Commercial Print Vs Fashion Modeling

Fashion modeling is SO MUCH about body type. The photography and styling is edgy and really focuses on the clothes. The hair and makeup is often outrageous. The models bodies are intended to be mannequins that all look similar to showcase the craftsmanship and detail of the garments. There are other terms that go along with Fashion:

  1. high fashion refers to the high end nature of the garments typically worn in magazine editorials and in international runway shows. This term is used less and less nowadays.
  2. editorial fashion refers to an exoticism of the model and the photography. An “editorial” is the area of a magazine where one or two models are being photographed in the latest trends. Often 6-10 pages curated by the magazine – not advertising. New models are often sized up to see if they can be “editorial” as opposed to commercial print. The terms fashion, high fashion, and editorial fashion are often used interchangeably.

Commercial Print (CP) modeling is about lifestyle and products. This is the type of modeling you encounter every day on the packages and in advertisements for things you buy. Models are approachable looking and have a pleasant appearance: great teeth, a face that lights up when they smile and attractive features and body. Body type is sometimes less strict for CP, although models that are tall and in good shape will likely do well. Other terms that go along with commerical print:

  1. Lifestyle: this term refers to a type of photography that focuses on the mood and atmosphere advertisers wish to portray. A model holding a coffee cup in front of a window or a woman playfully hopping off the sidewalk with shopping bags all highlight a type of lifestyle that the model is capable of portraying. Lifestyle models are ALL ages from 5 to 105.
  2. Media: some high-end agencies have a Media Board. This refers to the women/men in their agency who work in the commercial industry and not in fashion. They do print ads for products, commercials, trade shows, and other more approachable types of modeling work. Most likely they do not do runway.
Read more

cassie-weaver-fun-modeling-6

Getting “iced”

This is a great blog post by Mandi Morris at Azalea Agency in St Louis

 

here is the text from the post here

POSTED JANUARY 24, 2014

So, you totally nailed that audition yesterday and now you are just waiting for a call to hear you booked the gig. Instead, you get a message that the client wants to “ice” you or “put you on hold”. What does that mean!?!

First of all, these two terms are used interchangeably by most of the industry. Basically, the client likes you (they really like you!) and they might want to book you. However, they haven’t quite made up their mind yet or they may be waiting for a big wig or higher level decision maker to approve their talent choices. Or, they may have narrowed down the choices to one or two folks and they don’t want to risk losing an option while they pick.

When you agree to an icing or hold, you are agreeing to keep yourself available for the shoot date. That means you make arrangements for your work or schedule and you do not make other plans or accept other jobs on that date. However, the client still has the option to release you from the hold, or not book you without consequences. If you were “booked” and a client changed their mind, they would be required to pay a cancellation fee. An icing gives them a chance to lock in the talent they want before they are ready to move forward with a firm booking.

Icings are good. In fact, they are GREAT! It means you did a great audition and the client saw something they liked. 4 out of 5 times, an icing will be a booking for you. That fifth time when you don’t get the job usually happens when multiple talent were iced for one role. By the way, I’ll always warn you if you are one of multiple people holding for a role so you can set your expectations accordingly.

It never feels good to be passed on for a job, but it can actually be even harder when you were iced. To come so close and miss out? Some talent would rather have assumed they never had a shot. I encourage you to remember that an icing, regardless of what happens next, means that you were a client’s pick for a job. They saw something they liked and that almost always leads to a future gig. You are now on the client’s radar and they will be more likely to recognize you at another casting or think of you for an upcoming role.

– See more at: http://azaleaagency.com/2014/01/highs-lows-icing/#sthash.NdxVKPxX.dpuf

Read more

How to properly count calories

For all of the models out there who are watching their measurements, or are trying to reach goals, this is a great resource for doing it the healthy way.

Read more